Smocking-want to try but not sure where to begin?

disclaimer: all of the following applies mainly to smocking done on pleated fabric. Not smocking done in which you pleat the fabric by hand using dots. Personally, I haven’t done that type of smocking.

Ahhhh smocking. One of my favorite forms of sewing, smocking can add beautiful detail to an outfit. The act of smocking can also provide a sewist an outlet through which to pour love into a garment. Are you interested in adding smocking into your sewing repertoire?

There are TONS of helpful books, patterns, magazines, YouTube videos, and people. I hope to provide a list of the sources that have been most helpful to me. These are the steps, patterns and books that I wish I had started with when I began smocking. ***I have edited and republished this post to include Gail Doane’s incredibly comprehensive Smocking 101 course. I originally published this post in 2019, prior to the release of her class in 2021. Her online class has quickly become my most ardent recommendation for learning too smock. I wish it had been available when I first learned.

First thing’s first: get good at geometric smocking. Geometric smocking includes the basic stitches required for all smocking.The cable, trellis, wave and stem stitches are all required in almost all smocking patterns (or plates). Here are some of my favorite resources for geometric smocking:

• Gail Doane’s Smocking 101 class
  • This is a series of videos that walks you through everything you need to know to smock.
  • It comes with a downloadable manual for reference
• Sarah Classic Sewing’s Youtube Video.
• English Smocking by Lazette Ballew from Childrens Corner Patterns
  • out of print but can be found on amazon.
  • also has a basic yoke dress pattern in it (similar to the Lee)
• The Joy of Smocking by Martha Pullen
  • out of print but can be found on amazon.
  • also has a nightgown pattern in it.

If I were just learning how to smock I would likely purchase one of the above books, this kit, and watch the youtube video listed above. Unless you have someone around willing to help you learn to pleat your fabric, I would start with learning to smock on a pre-pleated insert, like the one found in the kit above. They can also be purchased here, here, or at your local sewing shop. You can also start with a garment that is “ready to smock” so that you can focus solely on the smocking. There are tons of these listed on Etsy. Here is an example of one.

In my experience there are fairly simple geometric smocking plates and there are more complicated ones. Here is a list of plates to try in order to improve your smocking gradually, while building confidence.

• Sallie by Children’s Corner
• Ellie by Children’s Corner
• Amanda by Ellen McCarn
• Elegant and Easy by Julia Golsen
• Mary’s Bishop by Children’s Corner

Each smocking plate will say if it is a “bishop variation” or a “straight variation.” The straight variation can also be called “Smocking on a yoke.” Often each plate will have an option for both. Use the bishop variation if the smocking is used to help gather the fabric in a dress. Typically you will see this when smocking directly onto the dress skirt (Childrens Corner Lee, Bishop, Bishop Bubbles, etc.) Use the straight variation if smocking onto an insert.

Once you feel comfortable with geometric smocking…challenge yourself! Try some picture smocking. Make sure you go into it with an open mind, as I can almost guarantee you, your first one will not look good. On one of my first attempts I smocked two swans with bows around their necks…my husband thought the two swans had baby swans on their necks. I ripped it out. When choosing your first picture smocking plates, look for plates with one-three colors. The color changes tend to be the hardest part. Here are a couple to try in the beginning.

• Kiawah Crabs by Ellen McCarn (this was my first picture smocking plate, I kept the crabs all one color)
• Sails By Children’s Corner
• Amber’s Fish by Children’s Corner

Hopefully this will get you started in smocking. If you want to sew, but don’t see yourself sewing entire outfits, this is a great way to dip your toe into the sewing world. You can purchase ready-to-smock outfits and try your hand at smocking! Once you get a taste, I doubt you’ll be able to stop 🙂

PS: Many thanks to my good friend Margy Hood for her help on this blog post. She is a long time sewist and smocker. Check out her work on instagram @MargyHood.